The tribes of Sabah

Modern-day Sabah has been shaped by a diverse range of ethnicities, with the majority of Sabahans members of at least one of more than 30 groups.

By far the biggest is the Kadazan-Dusun which comprises the Kadazan, people of the plains, and the Dusun, mountain farmers. But it also includes 40 other related tribes.

The Sabah coast has long been influenced by outside groups to such an extent that the second biggest ethnic group is the Bajau, descended from nomadic seafarers and emigrants from the Philippines, just a couple of hours to the north.


TWO GROUPS

Over the centuries they have divided into two distinct groups. The Bajau Laut, or sea gypsies, remain close to the ocean living in house boats and stilted homes at Gaya Island and Semporna. And while it may seem incongruous for a people descended from seafarers, the land Bajau are so adroit on horseback they are known as "the cowboys of the east".

And there are other smaller tribes, such as the ancestor-worshipping Dumpas who are thought to number about 1000. As they intermarry with other groups, fewer are speaking the native tongue.

But among the fern and elephant-ear jungle in the hills at Inanam, outside Kota Kinabalu, various indigenous traditions are demonstrated in the huts and longhouses at the Mari Mari Cultural Village. And although these are re-enactments, they are performed with evident pride and enthusiasm by the young men and women who represent the tribes.

On the far bank of the swollen Kionsom River are the longhouses of the Kadazan-Dusun, Bajau, Murut, Rungus and Lundayeh. And while there are differences in the beliefs and daily lives of each tribe, it's fascinating to see how a few staples such as bamboo, rice and honey had both obvious and individual uses.

STILT HOMES

All built their multi-family bamboo longhouses high on stilts to avoid flood damage. Temperature was controlled by opening the floor slats. But while many used the bamboo husk to make fire, the Dusun hollowed out the long, woody stems, filled them with chicken and vegetables and heated them over the fire, cooking the food without burning it.

The bamboo tube meals were often accompanied by montoku or rice wine but the Dusun also made alcohol from coconut and, as accomplished apiarists, from honey. Flare-ups between some of the more aggressive tribes could be deadly and some of the most inventive strategies were cooked up during times of conflict.

The fearsome Lundayeh from south-west Sabah were crocodile-worshipping headhunters, expert rope makers and skilful with their hands - useful because they had a lot of enemies. They also had their own alarm system to stop enemies sneaking up on the longhouse. On either side of the building a chicken and a boar would be caged and they could be depended upon to raise merry hell when unfamiliar figures emerged from the jungle.

The Murut were said to headhunt for fun and, as enemies of the Lundayeh, needed to get around the animal farm alarm. They did this by dipping darts into poisonous sap and using blowpipes to shoot the darts into the necks of their enemies, paralysing them instantly.

Then the head would be cut off, brought home, celebrated, smoked and hung up. Murut men had to take at least one fresh face to their prospective bride's father before they could get the go-ahead to marry. The lansaran, a kind of sunken bamboo trampoline, was a central feature of Murut longhouses and they would often celebrate a successful headhunt by having jumping competitions for prizes of chicken or homemade cigarettes hung from the ceiling.

EAT, DRINK, SMOKE

Throughout the tour, travellers get to eat, drink and even smoke many of the things they see being made. There is even the opportunity to fire a blowpipe at a coconut. The evening ends with a fantastically energetic and skilful Lundayeh bamboo dance accompanied by Murut gong playing followed by a buffet of traditional dishes.

I had feared the Mari Mari Cultural Village would be gimmicky but I was happy to be proved wrong. Instead it's a fascinating glimpse at indigenous traditions, some of which are disappearing. The young Kadazan, Dusun, Rungus, Murut, Bajau and Lundayeh men and women show the knowledge of their people with passion and respect.

Written by Niall McIlroy who visited Sabah as a guest of Sabah Tourism and Malaysia Airlines.